I’d like to address how to fix a few problems with the boning in your dress or tops.
Recently, a customer tried on a dress that just didn’t seem like it fit correctly in the bust.
I knew right away that it had an issue with the boning, because one side was fine and the other was dimpled.
So, after I finished marking the hem, she handed the dress over to me and I looked inside.
Can you see what I saw?
The photo above shows the interior of her dress.
On the left side, the boning was just fine and the curve was “pushing out” like it should be.
In other words, it followed the natural curve of the body.
The right side, however, was the exact opposite.
The right side curves in toward us.
Here’s a side view. You can see that the dress fabric (where my hand is) is sticking out like it should, but the boning (where the lining of the dress is) bends towards the body:
That meant that the boning was in there backwards on the right side of the dress.
To fix the problem, I needed to take the dress apart, remove the boning, and put it back in correctly.
Here’s what I found when I turned the dress inside out:
The lining is attached to the dress. That is why it looks all scrunched up.
So, remove the cording that connects the two together:
I usually just cut the cording in the middle. That way, there is a little bit of cording on each layer which tells me exactly where to reconnect them again after I make the alteration.
Once I cut the cording, I noticed that this particular dress had the boning stitched directly onto the lining. It wasn’t enclosed in a casing.
We’ll talk about those that are enclosed in casings in a few minutes.
To get this boning out, I needed to rip out the topstitching that was holding the boning in place:
I just start by finding a stitch I can rip and then continue pulling out stitches until the boning is out.
Before I take the boning completley off, I mark it so that I know the direction it was in the dress:
I used a black pen on this one because I knew it would never show.
If you are uncertain about the mark showing, use something that won’t show, or stitch some loose stitches in the boning and take them out later.
I mark the boning so that I don’t put it in the same way it was before.
I’ve done that before! You only make that mistake once, don’t you?!
Now, turn the boning over and lay it in the same spot it was when you took it out.
If you have a bit of fabric or ribbon wrapped around the top of the boning, keep it there:
It is meant to protect the sharp ends so that the boning doesn’t poke through your dress.
If your dress doesn’t have this ribbon or fabric, you can put a piece on if you want.
If it looks like your boning is going to slip around while you are sewing it down, just anchor it to the lining with a few hand stitches to hold it in place:
Now, machine stitch the boning in place, from the right side of the lining, being very careful not to catch other parts of the dress underneath.
Make sure everything is out of the way before you begin.
I just sew along the original stitching lines:
Sew down one side (be sure and pull out your pins so you don’t run over them)
Then, sew across the boning to anchor it in.
(Don’t worry, you won’t ruin your machine by stitching over it.)
You might want to go slow, though.
Then, stitch back up to the top again:
Now, you can stitch across the boning at the top, again being careful not to catch the dress itself underneath the presser foot:
That should be all you need to do.
Make sure you replace the cording that holds the lining to the dress (or use ribbon or a strong thread).
Have the customer try the dress on again and you’ll see how it takes care of that bad dimpling problem.
Now, if your boning is enclosed in a casing, just take out the understitching in the dress that is found at the very top:
Turn the dress inside out and take out a few stitches of this top seam:
You only need to take out three or four stitches, the minimum amount needed to pull the boning out, turn it around and put it back into the casing.
Once it is back in the casing, just stitch the seam back up.
I don’t generally restitch the understitching, because it really doesn’t need it.
But you could if you wanted to.
Another problem you might have with boning is that it may be cutting into your skin at the top of your dress.
That means the boning is too long.
Just open up the dress as I explained above.
If the boning has a piece of fabric over the end, remove that first.
Then, just use a regular pair of scissors and trim off the end.
I usually take off 1/4″ -1/2″ .
Put the fabric back on the tip of the boning (or if you didn’t have a piece of ribbon or fabric on there in the first place, you may want to put a piece on now) and stitch it in place so it won’t slip around.
Put the boning back in and restitch the dress closed, if applicable.
That should fit alot better and keep her (or you) comfortable.
There may be other configurations with your particular dress but, hopefully, with these tips, you’ll be able to figure yours out.
If not, shoot me an e-mail at The SewingGarden@gmail.com and I’ll walk you through it.